London does not lack for places to eat. What it lacks — what every great food city lacks — is clarity. The options multiply endlessly; the genuinely worthwhile ones do not. These are the London restaurants and bars that deserve your attention this season: places where the cooking, the room, and the experience are operating at a level that justifies the effort of securing a table. The Ledbury The Ledbury in Notting Hill represents the kind of quiet, consistent excellence that London’s restaurant scene occasionally produces and often takes for granted. Brett Graham’s cooking is